Among the “Big Four” fashion weeks, Milan has staged a legacy but still pales in comparison to young London, energetic New York and glamorous Paris. This season, however, Milan strike differently with an air of rebellion.
While no political statements were seen on the catwalks, the country’s creative team may have been pushed to the brink of victory by the reality of a far-right party.
Gaetano Pesce, the beloved Italian architect and furniture designer who designed Bottega Veneta’s decor on Saturday night, made a candid comment ahead of the brand’s runway show.
“This space is a tribute to diversity,” he stated of his resin runway full of a bespoke, multi-hued chair.
“It is about the human being; we are all different. People who say we’re all the same – f— them! We are all different, and this is our defining quality – otherwise, we are just a copy.”
A few days before the Bottega Veneta fashion show, Diesel tried to democratize his usually exclusive show by breaking tradition and inviting the public to attend the event, and received a huge crowd of 5,000 people, including 3,000 guests not belonging to the industry.
And, in a similar move breaking tradition, the Dolce & Gabbana clip of Kim Kardashian eating a plate of spaghetti was provocative.
The last time Dolce & Gabbana made a video with spaghetti as an accessory, in November 2018, the brand sent shockwaves, drawing accusations of racism. The particular promotional clip, which had an Asian model struggling to eat the pasta with chopsticks, was so controversial that the label was forced to cancel its show in China.
Meanwhile, the designer’s debuts at Etro, Missoni, Ferragamo and Bally injected vibrant new energy into the week, even to mixed reviews from critics.
Rebellion is almost another word for risk, and not all risks have a good outcome. The week was not without epic failures, including the Robert Cavali show where several models slipped and slid, and shows were delayed. But despite the setbacks, there is much to celebrate.
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Designer Rebellion in Milan
Matthieu Blazy’s second collection for Bottega Veneta is a sure win of the week. Mixing womenswear and menswear, the classy collection presented nearly every piece you need in your wardrobe – from jeans and tanks to suits and cocktail dresses.
Donatella Versace hosted another highlight of the week.
“I have always loved a rebel,” she said. “A woman who is confident, smart, and a little bit of a diva.”
The collection featured a goth girl’s dream in colors of purple and black, presenting mini dresses that are lingerie-inspired, leather, and veils.
Y2K has thrived in the fashion industry. Kim Jones’ newest collection – starring cargo trousers in leather and silk (which Gen Zs love), highlighter green platform heels, and leather mesh dresses – proved this notion more.
Jeremy Scott’s Moschino delivered a glam moment of levity from season to season.
In a backstage interview with CNN Style, Scott stated that he contemplated global problems, like the Ukraine-Russia war, economic inflation, and assault on women’s rights, when making the fits.
“There’s so much negativity that we have to process,” he stated, “but we must hold space for joy.”
A collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showed its first sashay this season. The pair’s newest collection showed a new alignment between the two highly esteemed designers, who have collaborated since Simons became Prada’s co-creative director two years ago.
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